That is a long track record. The standards are generally adopted by other organizations, such as OSHA or state and local governments. These guidelines are to be followed as safety regulations or to receive a permit for building or completion. The NFPA standard uses years of data from past experiences and testing. Following this standard ensures the safe construction and installation of a fireplace or solid fuel device wood burning stove.
In order to meet the EPA requirements, manufacturers are now required to build wood burning stoves that emit a much lower amount of PM or Particulate Matter than stoves built in the past. These emissions standards are met by building one of two types of stoves. Stoves are either catalytic or non-catalytic.
Catalytic stoves use a device similar to a vehicle catalytic converter to re-burn the smoke and reduce the emissions from the stove. Non-catalytic stoves use a baffle before the smoke exits the stove and introduces pre-heated air to re-burn the smoke and lower the PM that exits through the chimney. The catalytic stove is typically more efficient when new but the catalytic converter will need to be cleaned and will require replacement in years depending on the size. A pellet burning stove burns, pellets!
This newest version of pellet burning stoves have several advantages and some disadvantages. First, they use a much smaller, lower temperature chimney or vent pipe than a traditional wood burning system. They chimney system cost less, it is smaller in diameter, and will generally be easier to install. Second, pellets are stocked and sold in various stores.
This includes the big box home improvement stores, the farm supply stores, and wood stove retailer locations. This makes finding and purchasing your fuel supply convenient and keeps the price consistent. Pellet stoves have a hopper that is filled with pellets.
This hopper typically only needs to be filled one time a day. This is also more convenient than a wood burning stove that requires filling times a day. Lastly, the pellets are cleaner than the wood that is hauled in from the woods. They have no dirt, bugs, or debris that gets hauled into the home living area. The negative is that it requires electricity to operate. This would not be good in a power outage unless you have a generator to back-up your system. The cost of the pellets is considerably higher than the cost of firewood.
This may be offset by the lack of work required cutting, splitting, and stacking to build up a yearly firewood supply. Once you have chosen a stove, the placement of the stove is the next decision.
A central location is ideal. If your home or building has multiple stories, the lower the location, the better. Heat rises! A blower on the stove will move the heated air away from the stove, but not down. Hot air only moves up. In my home, I was able to locate the wood burning stove on a wall adjacent to my propane furnace.
This allowed me to connect to my heating duct system in the house to blow warm air from the wood stove through the house. Another option is to place the wood burner near a cool air return vent. Heat from the stove can be directed into the cool air return duct and distributed throughout the home using existing duct and the furnace fan.
Find a location as near to an entrance as possible. There will be many trips to the outside for wood, the closer to the door the better.
Again, at my house, I was able to install a small door in my utility room wall as a pass-through for wood. I have a wood box that sits on the outside of the house on the other side of the door. Last but most importantly is the location for the chimney. The chimney may go out a side wall and up the outside wall. This will also require multiple degree turns in the chimney pipe.
The straighter the pipe, the better, a chimney that is straight up and out is the ideal situation for a smoke-stack. Otherwise, install according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Sheetrock, sheet metal, masonry veneer and other thin or non-insulating materials placed directly against walls give little protection. These materials conduct heat very well; they will be almost as hot on their back sides as they are on their exposed sides. Reduced clearances are acceptable for the following: an engineered protection system approved by the inspecting authority having jurisdiction products and materials listed for protection purposes a non-combustible protector mounted an inch or more away from a combustible wall to allow free circulation of air behind it The reduction is specified by NFPA and most codes.
If a UL-listed stove has a heat shield attached, the clearance can be reduced as specified. Or build a heat shield to be mounted 1 inch off the wall on non-combustible spacers. To reduce the standard clearance to 12 inches, the heat shield should be of gauge sheet metal, mounted off the floor to provide unrestricted circulation of air between shield and wall see Figure 1. Any area within 36 inches of the wood stove should be covered as shown in Figure 2.
Clearance should be three times the diameter of the pipe, e. Heat shields may be used to reduce the clearance by the same ratio as for the stove. For example, with sheet metal you can reduce the clearance by two-thirds, from 18 inches to 6 inches. You don't. But if absolutely necessary, the following are approved methods: Build a 3. Each should be vented into a separate flue. Multiple connections can cause flue gases and sparks to pass from one flue opening to another, reducing efficiency and igniting unburned gases in the flue.
They are efficient and easy to install, but should be UL-listed. Insulated factory-built chimneys minimize soot and creosote buildup because the inner walls warm rapidly.
The necessary clearance from combustibles is marked on each section of UL-listed, factory-built chimneys. Both are safe and durable if constructed properly and well maintained. It is important to have an insulated chimney, particularly with an airtight wood stove.
You can then apply a bead of silicone around the perimeter of the flashing once it is in place. Once everything is in place, you can start assembling the chimney pipe sections.
Rock-Vent Class A chimney pipe requires 3 screws to connect multiple sections of the chimney pipe together. You will need to connect the universal male adapter to the first section of the chimney pipe. The male end of the universal adapter will extend through the ceiling support box so you are able to connect the single or double wall stove pipe to the chimney pipe. If the chimney pipe is really long or is going through multiple levels of the home, it may be best to start at the ceiling support box, work your way up and finish the installation though the roof flashing.
It is important to stabilize the chimney pipe above the ceiling support box with wall standoffs for long runs of chimney pipe.
You will need to install a wall standoff every 8 ft. The chimney pipe must be a minimum of 3 ft. The chimney height above the roof will be dictated by the pitch of the roof and the lateral distance from where the chimney pipe is going to penetrate the roof in relation to the peak. If the chimney pipe is coming through the peak of the roof, it will need to be a minimum 3 ft. If the pipe is going to penetrate the roof on the low side by the eave, you will need to have the pipe extend higher above the roof.
To calculate, multiply the roof pitch by the lateral distance from the peak of the roof. The top 40 in. The pipe needs to also be 2 ft. So another 24 in. A roof brace kit will be required to stabilize the pipe if the chimney pipe is 5 ft. The roof brace kit is a band that has adjustable poles which anchor to the roof deck to stabilize the pipe. The last step above the roof will be installing the storm collar and the chimney rain cap. The storm collar is what wraps around the pipe and sits over the flashing to seal off where the pipe comes through the top of the roof flashing.
Most storm collars have a hose clamp mechanism to ensure the storm collar is tight around the pipe. Other storm collars have a tab that you bend around to lock the storm collar on.
Once the storm collar is in place, you will need to put a bead of high temp silicone around the pipe and the storm collar to ensure the storm collar is water tight. Lastly, place the rain cap on the top of the pipe. The rain cap will be clamped around the outside of the chimney pipe. Now that the chimney pipe is installed, the next step is to connect the chimney pipe to the stove using a single wall or double wall black stove pipe.
Your choice on which to use is going to be based on the clearance the stove pipe will have to combustible material. Single wall stove pipe requires an 18 in. Double wall stove pipe requires a 6 in. If you used a heat shield to get the stove closer to a wall, a double wall stove pipe would likely be required. If the stove is far away from a wall, then you could use a single wall pipe. Single and double wall pipes have similar installations.
The male pipe ends of the stove pipe should always point down or towards the stove. Telescoping stove pipes make the installation of the stove pipe a breeze and do not require any cutting. In some cases the wood stove will not be sitting directly under the ceiling support box. In this event, you will need offsetting elbows to shift the pipe to the chimney support box. If you are installing an older stove without any type of draft control, it would be wise to install a damper on the stove pipe.
The damper will regulate the draft and extend the burn time of the wood. A single wall damper installs in the stove pipe by drilling two holes in the pipe. Then you place the damper flap inside the pipe and run the damper rod through the holes on the pipe and the damper flap to lock it in place. A double wall stove pipe damper will come pre-assembled and is installed as a section of stove pipe. If you have a newer EPA rated stove, a damper is not needed since most newer stoves have a damper control built in.
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